laupäev, 23. mai 2015

Jälle uus Käsitöö/A fresh issue of Käsitöö again

Käsitöö suvenumber on väljas.
The Summer issue of Käsitöö has just appeared.
Mul on seal kaks kudumit, mõlemad topid (pildid: Krista Kõiv). Valge on siidiga mohäärist (King Kid Silk, 25 g/210 m) ja sinine on puuvillast (Egitto, 50 g/120 m).
I have two designs there, both are tops (photos by Krista Kõiv). The white one is from silk mohair King Kid Silk, 25 g/210 m) and the blue one is from cotton (Egitto, 50 g/120 m).
 
 

neljapäev, 21. mai 2015

Valmis/Finished

Paistab, et selline rätiku konstruktsioon on päis õnnestunud. Võib mässida nii ja naa, otsad on kenasti keerdus, samas ei kogune ette suurt massi, nagu klassikaliste kolmnurksete rättide puhul.
It appears that this shawl construction is quite sucessful. You can wrap the shawl in many ways, the tips are curling beautifully and, at the same time, you don't have the fabric gathering at the front as in the case of classical tirangular shawls.
 
 
Mu abikaasa proovis ka kaela ja talle meeldis. Minimalistlik, täiesti ambivalentne (võib kanda nii mees kui naine). On soe, samuti mitte liiga paks (elagu mohäär!). Kui aga tahta edaspidi mingi mustriga teha, siis ei ole takistust, peaks pisut kalkuleerima, teades, mitme silmuse võrra kasvab iga rida.
My husband tried it on, too, and liked it. Minimalist, completely ambivalent (both men and women can wear it). Warm but not too thick (long live mohair!). If one wishes some stitch pattern, it is not a problem, you have just to make some calculations, keeping in mind by how many stitches every row increases.

teisipäev, 19. mai 2015

Äär/Edge

Nüüd on silmuseid hästi palju, äär edeneb aeglaselt. Äär on jämedamast lõngast. Siin on näha, kus algab poolpatent.
Now there are quite many stitches in the row and the edge is progressing slowly. The edge is from a heavier yarn. Here you can see where the half-patent section starts.

pühapäev, 17. mai 2015

Üleminek/Transition

Kui tahta sujuvat värviüleminekut, siis tuleb kokku panna mitu lõnga ja kududes asendada esialgu üks lõng mõnda teist värvi lõngaga, siis kaks jne, kuni kõik töös olevad lõngad on teist värvi. Antud juhul aga ei ole niisugust eesmärki. Esialgu on must mohäär ja punane meriino segulõng, pärast on endiselt must mohäär ja must meriino. Nii et algpunktis ei ole puhas punane, vaid punamust.
If you want to obtain a smooth colour transition, hold several strands together and gardually substitute one strand with a strand of the second colour, then two strands etc untill all strands are in the second colour. In this case I did not have this in mind. At first I combined black mohair with red merino blend and then the same black mohair with black merino. So at the starting point it was not pure red but red-black combination.
Must osa ei ole veel kuigi lai. Alumisel pildil on rätiku ots.
The black sector is not really wide yet. The tip of the shawl is in the bottom picture.

reede, 15. mai 2015

Uus vägev lõng/A new wonderful yarn

Sain täna HauteKnit Yarnilt paki. Vaadake linki siin, näete igasugu värve! Shellee, suur tänu!
Today I got a parcel from HauteKnit Yarn. Please have a look here, you will see all kind of colours! Shellee, thank you very much!
Nagu näete, lõng on kergelt ebaültase värviga
As you can see, the dye is slightly uneven.
Lõng on 100g/490 jardi, 100 % meriino. Ehk päris tüüpiline sokilõnga jämeduses. Plaan on selline: koon sellest midagi (ilmselt sviitri või topi) ja kirjutan õpetuse. Pärast teeme kooskudumise Ravelrys HauteKnitYarn rühmas (tingimus on, et kooskudumiseks hangitakse seda lõnga). Ajakava täpsustame hiljem. Nii et jälgige infot palun.
The yarn is 100 g/490 yards, 100 % merino. It is quite typical sock yarn weight. The plan is as follows: I will knit something (probably a sweater or a top) and write a pattern. Then there will be a KAL on Ravelry, hosted in HautKnitYarn group (the precondition is that you purchase the yarn). The exact schedule will be discussed later. So please stay with me.

kolmapäev, 13. mai 2015

Jälle "Kontrastne"/"Contrasting" again

On alati huvitav jälgida, kuidas kudumisõpetusi tõlgendatakse. Muidugi võib lihtsalt kopeerida, aga minu jaoks on alati huvitav tõlgendus. Seda enam, et antud juhul seletasin kudumi nime ja tegin paar ettepanekut, kuidas toimida. Mul endal on kontrast kere ja krae faktuuride vahel, värv on enam-vähem sama, aga võib valida ka erinevaid värve.
It is always interesting to keep track on various interpretations of a pattern. Of course one may just copy but for me it is the interpretation that is most intrigueing. Especially given the fact that I explained the name of the pattern and made some suggestions. My own top has a contrast between the fabrics of the torso and the collar, while the colour is more or less the same; for sure, one can choose different colours as well.
See Inga variant meeldib mulle väga. Rohkem pilte on tema enda blogis siin. Aitäh, Inga!
I like qutie a lot this version by Inga. There are more pictures on her blog here. Thank you, Inga!

esmaspäev, 11. mai 2015

Oversized kudumid/Oversized knits

See postitus on juba hulk aega plaanis. Sain materjali kogutud, vesteldud mitme kudujaga, vaadatud pilte. Miks selline teema? Sellepärast, et sain aru, et mulle oversized riided ei sobi. Siis tekkis tahtmine mõista, miks nii. Olen korduvalt kirjutanud, et minu jaoks on alati oluline n-ö diagnoos ja seletus. Jutt tuleb üsna pikk, varuge kannatust. Kõik pildid on internetist (v.a. minu sinise sviitri pilt).
This post has been on my mind for a while. I have collected material, talked to several knitters, examined pictures. Why this topic? Because I realized that oversized clothes do not agree with me. Then it felt like getting to the bottom of it, why so. I have repeatedly written that for me it is crucial to diagnose, so to say, and to find an explanation. This is a long story, so please bear with me. All pictures are from internet (except for the pic of my blue sweater).

Stiil tuleb seest. Kes ma olen, mida tahan enda kohta öelda (või mida varjata, ütlemata jätta jms). Teine küsimus, kas soovitud mulje on saavutatud, s. o. kas minu "koodi" mõistetakse ikka nii, nagu ise seda plaanisin. Näiteks, keegi tahab jätta endast soliidse mulje, kuid mõne valearvestuse tõttu ja teatud välimuse parameetrite tõttu on üldmulje "igav". Kirjutan jutumärkides, sest riideese või kudum ei ole igav iseenesest, vaid konkreetses kontekstis (vt siin).
Style comes from within. Who I am, what I want to say about myself (or to conceal, to understate, for that matter). Another question is, whether one succeeds in conveying the wished message, that is, whether my "code" is understood in the way I meant. For instance, one wants to give an impression of a serious, respectable person but due to some miscalculations and some parametres of one's apperance the general impression is "borring". I am writing this in quotation marks because a garment or a knit is not borring in and by itself but under specific circumstances (see here).


Oversized tundus mulle sümpaatne. Aga siin tuleb olla ettevaatlik, sest korralikel piltidel on alati kooskõla modelli, riiete ja üldstilistika vahel: pildil on sümpaatne, aga pole üldse selge, kas endale sobib. Selle juurde, miks oversized on mulle sümpaatne, tulen veel tagasi. Esialgu polnud põhjus üldse selge.
Oversized appealed to me. But here one should be careful because in decent modelled pictures there is always harmony between the model, clothes and a general style: the picture is attractive but it is not at all clear whether it suits you. I will come back to why I liked overisize. In the beginning the reason was not clear.

Mul oli selge, et väga suur, piltlikult öeldes, padjapüür 70 cm x 70 cm mulle ei sobi, aga nt 55 cm laiusega? Või 60 cm? Vaatame seda minu sviitrit. Pilt meeldib paljudele. Ise küsimus, kas niisugust asja lugeda oversized'iks. On justkui kena, aga mitte ideaalne..
It was clear to me from the beginning that a very roomy thing, so to say, a pillowcase 70 cm x 70 cm does not suit me. What about 55 cm width? Or 60 cm? Have a look at this sweater of mine. The picture is liked by many. Whether it qualifies as oversized, is another question. It is a kind of nice but not ideal.
Siis proovisin poes mitmeid kudumeid, võtsin oversized XS suuruses, ikka pole õige. Sain aru, et pole "minu oma". Hakkasin küsima, kuidas tuttavad kudujad suhtuvad sellesse. Suurem osa arvas, et on hea kududa ja ka kanda. Mõni ise ei kanna, aga koob hea meelega nt oma lastele. Mõnel on mõni oversized kudum, mis tundub mugav, aga pole erilist tahtmist neid massiliselt kududa. Veel oli arvamus, et sobib igale figuurile. Sellega on muidugi teatud probleem, sest asi pole ainult laiuses, vaid üldproportsioonides ka. Võib olla massiivne, aga pikk ja lame. Mõnel võib olla sama rinnaümbermõõt, kuid hoopis teine figuur. Nii et universaalset retsepti ei ole (minu arust väitesse, et asi/värv/lõige X sobib kõigile, tuleb suhtuda ettevaatlikult).
Then I kept trying on various knits, I took oversized in XS but this did not feel right either. I realized that it is not "mine". I asked my knitting friends about their attitudes to oversized knits. The majority believed that it is good to wear and to knit them. Some do not wear but knit to their children with pleasure. Some have a couple of oversized knits that are comfortable to wear but do not wish to knit them on a massive scale. There was also an opinion that oversized garments fit any shape and figure. There is a certain problem here because it is not only about the width but about general proportions. One can be of a powerful build but tall and flat-chested. Another person has the same chest circumference but a different shape. So there are no universal rules (in my view, tone should be cautions with claims like "X-thing/shape/colour suits all").

Hakkasin vaatama Pinterestis oversized kudumite pilte. Mul on kaustas Inspiration suur hulk selliseid. Nüüd tuleb see koht, kus räägime assotsiatsioonidest. Millega seostub oversized? Pinterestis peab piltidele kirjutama märksõnu. Kirjutan märksõnu tavaliselt kudumise seisukohalt (nt lihtne soonikus raglaan vms). Kuid paljud kirjeldavad nn kvalitatiivsete adjektiividega: armas, mugav, elegantne, ilus, hubane, kodune. Ükskord nägin järjest pilte, kus märksõnad olid "cozy", "comfy" jms. Ja siis taipasin! Oversized võib olla muidugi ka midagi muud kui kodune (vt alumine pilt), aga mina küll ei kirjeldaks end ja oma stiili  sõnadega "hubane", "mugav", "kodune". Ma ei näe ennast nii. Kui mulle selga tõmmata oversized asi, siis valgun laiali, mind pole näha. Veel hiljem sain aru, et see, mis mind köitis, on lihtsus. Aga lihtsus ei ole alati üks ja sama. Lihtsus võib kalduda tõesti mugavuse ja hubasuse suunas, aga ka sportlikkuse suunas (jälle pole minu rida). Minu lihtsuse liik on midagi muud.
I started looking oversized knits on Pinterest. I have a board called Insperation with quite a few of these. Let us return to associations here. What kind of associations oversized garments arise? One has to write comments and keywords to one's pictures on Pinterest. Usually I write something knitting related (for exampe, a simple ribbed raglan sweater etc). But many describe their pins with so-called qualitative adjectives: lovely, comfortable, elegant,  beautiful, cozy, homey. Ones I saw several pictures one after another with the keywords "cozy", "comfy". And then I got it! Oversized can be something different than homey (see picture below) but I would never describe myself or my style with the words "cozy", "comfy", "homey". I don't see myself in this way. If I am dressed in oversized things, I sort of melt away. Later I understood that the thing that attracted me was simplicity. But simplicity is not the same in all contexts. In some cases it may lean towards comfort and cozyness or towards sport-inspired styles (not my cup of tea either). My simplicity is something  else.
Vestlesin sel teemal Maijaga (ta on stilist Moskvast ja olen teda varemgi maininud; koos ühe teise stilistiga arendab ta praegu intuitiivse riietumise kontseptsiooni). Saatsin talle paar pilti. Ta arvas, et see küll pole "minu" oma. Mitte selles mõttes, nagu, ütleme, pastellvärvid ei ole kontrastse "talve" värvid, vaid ei ole minu stiili ja olekuga kooskõlas, kuigi figuuri järgi võiks sobida. Niisiis, mõnikord lihtsus = hubasus, mõnikord aga lihtsus = selge struktuur ja kuju. Minu riietel peab olema selge struktuur. See ei tähenda, et kõik peab olema liibuv, aga vorm peaks olema konkreetne ja miski peab kogu pilti koos hoidma. Te võite öelda, et liiga keeruline ja kas seda arutlust oli üldse vaja. Minu meelest on mul endal ikka vaja, asjad on nüüd palju selgemad.
I discussed it with Maya (she is a stylist from Moscow and I have mentioned her earlier; together with another stylist she has been working on the concept of intuitive dressing). I sent her a couple of pictures. She belived this was not "me". Not in the sense like, say, indefinite soft colours are not for a contrasting Winter but in the sense that this is at odds with my style and how I am, although everything fits the body. So in some cases simple = cozy and in others simplicity = clear structure and shape. My clothes should be structured. It does not think that everything should be with a negative ease but the shape should be concrete and something has to hold everything together. You may say that it is all too complicated and maybe this kind of deliberation was not needed at all. In my view, I really needed this because now the things are much more clear.